tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35048724895730363552024-02-08T12:05:30.917-06:00Cahaba Southern RailwayN Scale Southeastern Model Railroad in 9' x 10'Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.comBlogger28125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-37989090445867523182011-07-05T19:22:00.001-05:002011-07-05T19:51:45.826-05:00Layout Progress Report #24 as of 7/05/2011<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><i>"WELL I BEEN WORKIN' IN A COAL MINE</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><i></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><i>GOIN' DOWN DOWN</i></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><div style="text-align: left;"><i>WORKIN' IN A COAL MINE</i></div></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><div style="text-align: left;"><i>WHEW ABOUT TO SLIP DOWN..."</i></div></span><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">Well, with all respect to Devo, I have been working on the scenery in the Susan Bee mine area of layout, and I'm starting to see some results. Here is where it is today:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000427.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">As you can see, some of the rock faces are visible, and the first set of tunnel portals have been put in place. Here is a little closer view of the tunnels:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000426.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">The tunnel portals are Woodland Scenics concrete portals, glued to the mountain base. I painted them with grey primer for now, they will be weathered later for a more realistic look. You can also see the rock work that I carved from Sculptamold around the portals and then painted, as well as some paint drips that will serve as a reminder to cover the track when doing scenery. Luckily those will cleanup and not be seen after I weather the track.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;">Let's take a look at how I did the rockwork: Mix up some Sculptamold to the consistency of firm mashed potatoes. You want it to be spreadable and not runny. Take that and apply to the area where you want the rock face using your bare hands. Spread it out about 1/4" thick, then smooth it out some, however don't make it perfectly smooth. You want some undulations and waviness in it. Once that is done let it dry for a couple of days until it is completely dry. Here is what it should like:</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000411.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">Next take a hobby knife and scribe some horizontal lines into the Sculptamold at irregular intervals, about 1/8" to 3/8" of an inch apart. You don't want them too perfectly spaced...</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000412.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">Next take a small carving tool (a small flat tip screwdriver will work as well) and start making small gouges into the Sculptamold. Once again, the more irregular and randomly spaced they are, the better.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000415.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">Here is what it should look like after the gouging.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">Next take a soft well worn toothbrush and smooth out any small loose pieces & fuzz from where the Sculptamold was carved. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000417.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">Here you see some of the debris from the brushing. Go ahead and vacuum it away.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">Now it's time to put the basecoat of paint on to the rock faces. I'm using grey acrylic water based craft paint, purchased at your local Wal-Mart or Arts & Crafts store. I mix it with some water, ratio 2/3rds paint, 1/3rd water. You don't want it going on too thick, it will hide the details.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">After 2 coats with a foam brush it will look like this:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000421.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">...and a more closeup look:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000424.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px;">That's the basics of how the rock work was done. The look I was trying to capture is typical for the northern Alabama, Georgia and Tennessea area, horizontal strata rockwork of the southern Appalachian mountains. It will look even more realistic later after some black washes and drybrush weathering of the rock faces is added, as well as the weeds and plant life. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;">Until next time.....</span></span></div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-56581043616634898552011-06-05T17:24:00.002-05:002011-06-05T17:50:52.512-05:00Layout Progress Report #23 as of 6/05/2011Wow...6 months since my last post: that's what happens when life gets in the way of your hobbies!!! Nothing bad, just been busy with family, work and other interests. Also gotten a little burnt out on Model Railroading....to be expected as I had gone 13 months straight working on the Cahaba Southern without much of a break! But now I'm back into it, batteries recharged and ready to go!<br />
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I have continued work on the scenery base around the coal mine area. After the base scenery lattice and mountain was completed in the last progress report I have now started to work on the areas around it: the tunnel portals and scenery contours of the track and surrounding bridge. I'm using more styrofoam and cardboard strips covered with masking tape for the basic shapes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000363.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000366.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Once that was started I then used plaster cloth to form the hard shell. Using the masking tape prevents the excess water from the plaster cloth dripping onto the level below.</span><br />
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A few words on plaster cloth: there are other sources besides model railroading suppliers. Plaster cloth can also be found at medical supply and art supply, which often sell in bulk at reduced prices. The cloth I'm using I purchased from Amazon in a 20 lb bulk box for under $49, and it was shipped free if you are member of Amazon Prime. Considering each pack of Woodland Scenic plaster cloth costs around $10 and weighs 12 oz.....well, you do the math: for the price of 5 packs of Woodland Scenic plaster cloth I've got almost 27 rolls now in bulk. With the size of the layout I'm building I'm now set! <br />
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Here is the coal mine mountain with the base coat of plaster cloth down:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000368.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Next time around I hope to have the tunnel portals installed, as well as some plaster and Sculptamold in place for the basic rock formations. Until then......and I hope it won't be 6 months this time!Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-30400399442563283882011-01-09T18:56:00.002-06:002011-01-09T19:14:14.746-06:00Layout Progress Report #22 as of 1/09/2011Happy New Year!!!! A new year is upon us, and it also marks the 1st anniversary of the new Cahaba Southern. Wow, looking back at the pics and reports it is amazing how much has gotten done on the layout so far, and there is much left to do.....<br />
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While the holidays and family took a lot of my time out of my railroading schedule, some model railroading was accomplished. Numerous engines were converted to DCC and a front fascia was added to the upper level. However, the most visible and biggest amount of time was spent on the first hillside, which will be behind the location of the coal mine area. The hill itself will have to allow access to the track hidden inside, so that will add some complexity. It will be constructed using a variety of established techniques and materials.<br />
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First things first I need to build a base for the hill. To do this I use some scrap cardboard and create a template as shown in the following pics.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000226.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Once the template is completed I marked the locations of where the base will be resting on the existing plywood. I then use this to cut the first two layers of the base from 3/4" extruded styrofoam. Before I attached the 2 layers together I drilled some holes thru the bottom layer and the plywood underneath for some screws and washers. As I will be doing a good portion of the building of this hillside away from the layout this gives me way to make sure I put it back in the same place during the various stages of fitment. In the following picture you can see the bottom layer in place with the screws and washers, and I'm getting ready to put the second layer on top of it. I will secure the layers together using some Loctite Power Grab latex construction adhesive, temporarily inserting nails to hold things in place.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000228.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">Once these two 3/4" pieces were done I had created enough of a clearance height to then make a solid piece the size of the original cardboard template. This layer I made from 2" styrofoam for strength and stability. I then also measured the desired hillside height, then laid out 2 profiles for this on some more of the 3/4" styrofoam and cut it out. I attached these to the 2" base and glued them in place to create the back of the hillside. Note that I could not use one single piece for the back as the curved corners of the backdrop would not allow that. I then glued some more 3/4" pieces of styrofoam in place that will be the "ribs" of the mountain. I used some temporary nails to hold things in place and perpendicular, then let it sit overnight to allow the adhesive to set.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000229.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">After that had dried I carried the hillside back to the layout to get an idea of how it will look.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000230.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">The next step is the cut the profile into the ribs. To do this I marked with a Sharpie the desired profile and then used a Woodland Scenic Hot-wire foam cutter to cut the profiles into the ribs.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000232.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">Ready for the next step, the hillside got removed and taken back to my workarea in the garage. In the next pic you can also see the cardboard strips that I will hotglue together onto the hillside to make the skin.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">Unfortunately I got a little build-happy and didn't take any pics of the next step, which is to cut access holes into the base and the ribs. These holes will be used in the future to get at any problems that may occur on the track underneath.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">After the holes were cut, the cardboard strips were crisscrossed and applied to the hillside with hot glue. This is shown in the following pic, and you can also see the access holes that were cut in the base and ribs.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000261.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">Next picture shows the cardboard web completed, with the layer of masking tape started to cover the web. The masking tape will be the base upon which plaster cloth strips will be put on to the hillside. The masking tape smooths the contours for the plaster cloth strips as well prevent the wet plaster from falling thru the hillside on to the track below.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000262.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">The next pic shows the hillside in it's final position. This is also the first picture that shows the fascia that was installed on the main level. Notice the masking tape on the left side is not in place yet. As this section will have to butt up to the fascia the web first needed to be extended to the fascia, then the last of the masking tape applied.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000263.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">The next pic shows the web from the hillside has been extended to the fascia and then covered with the masking tape.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000265.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">This final pic for now shows an overall view of the hillside in place.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000266.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">As you can tell by the above pic, the base of the hillside is there. Next I have to build the tunnels which will integrate into the hillside. Once those are in place, then it becomes time for the plaster cloth cover. Hopefully I'll be able to post about that next time.....til then!</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-82290105499993064462010-11-27T19:14:00.021-06:002010-11-28T08:58:16.784-06:00Layout Progress Report #21 as of 11/27/2010Well, the big day finally arrived on Wednesday, November 24th: Both mainlines' track was completed and the first trains ran on them on the main level, 327 days after the first piece of benchwork went up.......Hooray!!!! It's been a long haul so far, and the journey of this layout has a long way to go!<br />
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Here is a video showing the mainlines in operations as of this morning:<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="253" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17245205" width="450"></iframe><br />
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Here are some pics to look at things in more detail. First the loops around the coal mine area:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000193.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Next the area heading into the town (one of these days I'm going to have to start naming these places)....<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000194.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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A further look around the town area toward where the depot will be:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000195.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Continuing further east along the layout:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000196.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Finally the loop above the helix:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000197.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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After the video and above pictures were shot, I began to work on some train protectors along the hidden part of the track. These protectors will help stop the engines and/or cars during a derailment from falling off of the roadbed on the upper level onto the lower level or, even worse, onto the floor. With the cost of rolling stock these days it only makes sense to do this to help prevent destroying the rolling stock. I'm only installing these on what will be the hidden track, as the visible track will have scenery around it to catch any derailments.<br />
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I'm building these with 1.5" wide strips of 1/8th inch masonite hardboard and some 1 inch corner brackets screwed to the bottom of the wooden subroadbed. Here is a closeup that shows how it is mounted:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Here is another area showing some of the protector boards. As you can see, the corner braces hold it in place, with a few screws here and there to secure it. Doesn't have to be pretty, just effective:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000199.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Here is the coal mine part of the layout with all of the protector installed on that side:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000198.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Next couple of weeks things will slow down some, with the holidays approaching. I'll work on a few odds & ends during that time, mostly some DCC stuff like installing decoders and working on routes. However, I already have plans made for over the Christmas holidays to pick up some styrofoam sheets to start the scenery contours!!<br />
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One final video before we go. I shot this for our friends at <a href="http://www.nscale.org/">N Scale</a> website, a great resource for the N Scale Model Railroader. See y'all soon!!!<br />
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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17251780" width="450" height="253" frameborder="0"></iframe>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-28099097640448635282010-11-08T18:39:00.002-06:002010-11-08T20:23:56.819-06:00Layout Progress Report #20 as of 11/08/2010First off let me give y'all my sincerest apologies, it's been more than a week as I had planned for my next update, it's actually been almost 2 months!! Ouch!!! Life and priorities have gotten in the way of updating the blog, however work on the CSR has progressed nicely. <br />
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So when we last left the CSR the track had been laid for the branchline on the main level. Next was the powering of that track, which meant the track sections had to be isolated due to reverse loops and the Peco Electrofrog turnouts that I'm using. Using Peco Electrofrog turnouts require that the diverging sections of the turnout be insulated from the next track sections on the frog side of the turnout. This can be done with insulating joiners when joining the track to the turnout or by cutting insulating sections into the track. I prefer the latter, as it is much more stable and secure than insulating joiners, as they flex and deteriorate over time.<br />
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Here is the tool I use to make the insulating cuts into the track: A Dremel with a Flexshaft attachment with a #409 cutoff wheel attached. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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There are other ways of making this cut including with a razor saw, however a cutoff wheel on a Dremel works best. The flex shaft is not a necessity, however it makes it much easier to cut a nice perpendicular cut into the rail as shown in the next picture. Note that the track on either side of the cut has been glued down, thus the rail will still be supported by the glued down track, something that would not happen if I had just used an insulated railjoiner.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000043.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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After the cut has been made I use some .020x.100 strip styrene to help insulate the gap that has been cut in the rails. The gaps can be seen in the track above the styrene.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000045.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The strip styrene is put into the gap and then cut off as shown.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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After the styrene is in place some gap filling Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue is used to glue the styrene into place in the gap.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000048.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Here you can see three sets of them glued into place, waiting for the CA to dry. I usually like to wait at least a couple of hours. CA glue dries quickly when it is applied this, but when a whole drop is put into place it takes longer. I also do not use an accelerator as the joint it produces will not be as strong as one without.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Once the glue has dried I then use a small needlefile to file the styrene into the shape of the rail. The final result then looks like this:<br />
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Electrical feeders were attached to the flextrack before it was put in place, as shown in Progress Report #5. Once that piece of track is in place I drill a couple of small holes next to the track and pull the feeders thru the holes as shown.<br />
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Here are the feeders shown from below the benchwork, coming thru the wooden subroadbed.<br />
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I then attach the feeders to the DCC buses underneath the layout with red 3M Scotchloks for joining the 20ga feeder to the 14ga bus wire. Some people have had problems with intermittent connections using wiretaps like this and I have as well, but only when I was using a knockoff cheapo brand of wiretaps. I have never had a problem with a 3M brand Scotchlok failing on me. This is one place not to cheap out but to buy only the best name brand stuff.<br />
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As you can see above there are 3 sets of DCC power buses running underneath this section of the layout, each of them color coded with electrical tape. These feeders are coming from the branchline, which is being fed by the yellow DCC power bus. Color coding and labeling things will make troubleshooting electrical issues easier, both in the present and in the future.<br />
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I've also put in all 6 of the Digitrax DS64 stationary decoders for the upper main level of the layout. As I was laying track on the upper level I determined it would be easier to go ahead and have the decoders ready to power the turnout machines, attaching them as I was going along. I used some scrap plywood and some hinges, mounting them underneath the layout in strategic locations. Here you can see 2 sets of decoders mounted under the layout.<br />
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Here is a closeup of one of the mounting boards, with the decoders all wired up and ready to go.<br />
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The boards fold out of the way and are held in place by a couple of strips of wood attached with some spacers and screws. Simple, cheap and effective...<br />
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So once the decoders were in I got busy with the track laying. All of the track in the main town area of the layout is in, with all sections powered and operational, with all turnouts operating remotely thru DCC as well. Here is the east side of the town area, with the branchline closest to the edge, the 2 mainlines heading up and away:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000177.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Here is the west side of the town, with the branchline once again closes to the edge, the 2 mainlines further inside, heading out underneath the temporary bridge.<br />
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Speaking of the temporary bridge, I built it as a place holder for the 2 bridges I had shown in a previous section. They will be put into place as the scenery progresses. In the meantime this temporary bridge built from masonite and l-shaped aluminum glued together will be the placeholder.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000179.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Next step is to tie the mainlines together, and that day when the trains can run continuously is getting close......until next time!Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-4263470142189643712010-09-19T17:11:00.001-05:002010-09-19T20:59:52.140-05:00Layout Progress Report #19 as of 09/19/2010Wow, three weeks have already gone by since my last post, and it has been a busy time on the Cahaba Southern. I've probably put in another 40+ hours the last 3 weekends plus some weeknights, and good progress is being made. Here is what it typically looks like while all the work is going on, tools and other needed stuff everywhere:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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In order to put in the bridges I had built in the last progress report I need to get all the trackwork in place that the bridges will pass over. However, nn order to put in the trackwork I needed to get the power buses and main distribution panel put in. So, it's time to pull a bunch of wire and connect a bunch of connectors, and after a good days of work later it looks like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The upper main level will be subdivided into 4 districts: the 2 main lines, the branchline and industries, and the reversing loop. I have a 2nd feed coming off of the DCS200 to supply the main level, and it goes to the PM42 distribution panel shown on the bottom right. The AR1 for the reversing loop is mounted above it. The 4 district bus wires are run through the layout, with each pair coded with different colors of electrical tape to help distinguish it. These bus wires can be seen leaving the distribution on the left. Everything is mounted and hinged to the bottom of the main level and can swing down for maintenance access.<br />
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So now that I have power, it is time to lay some track......or is it? Well, almost, one more thing to get done before the track get put down. In another previous progress report I showed the PL-10 switch machines from Peco and the mounts and wiring needed for them. These have to be put in and mounted as the turnouts are laid. So I spend a long afternoon preassembling my switch machines, and here is a pic of some mounted to the main level:<br />
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Well, if there are mounted switch machines that must mean that some turnouts and track has been laid...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">..and there it is. This pic shows the branchline track coming up from the helix. Note that I've also painted the cork roadbed before putting down the track. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I paint my cork roadbed ballast color, and then lay the track attaching it with clear adhesive caulk. Then when I later ballast it it will require less ballast to make it look right as you don't necessarily have to cover as thick. It also helps around turnouts, as ballasting there is a frequent source of problems. Not having to use as much ballast and glue around the turnouts can help prevent problems.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"></span>After coming around the bend the branchline is heading into town:<br />
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The 2 mainlines are to the outside of the branchline and are not in place yet. Here is another pic of the branchline as it heads towards where the bridges will be:<br />
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One final pic of the branchline reverse loop as it sits underneath where the coalmine will be. Where the mainlines will go can be seen around the outside of the branchline:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/P1000039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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So the track for the branchline is down, however the feeders have not been connected to the main power buses nor have the insulating gaps been cut into place. Once that is done I will be able to run a train continuously from the lower staging to the upper branchline and back again. For now, I'm pooped, so I'm saving that for next week. Until then!!!Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-21398057314448434212010-08-30T19:47:00.001-05:002010-08-30T19:55:46.732-05:00Layout Progress Report #18 as of 08/30/2010With the basic subroadbed in place on the upper main level and the trackwork waiting to get started, a couple of items needed to get complete before the trackwork could start in earnest. The first was the construction of 25 more Peco turnout machines, as was described back in Progress Report #6. The other was the construction of some bridges for the trackwork. I was able to knock a big dent in both of these tasks during the last week.<br />
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On my double-track mainline there is a 17" gap that needs to be filled with bridges. I'm going to fill this gap with 2 bridges. The first bridge I used will have to cross 3 tracks that will run underneath at an angle, so I had to pick a fairly long bridge. Walthers Double-Track Truss Bridge fit the bill nicely at a length of 10-3/4". It was built per the included instructions, and then painted with some flat black spray paint. Some weathering is still to be done, before installation.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4812.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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That leaves a 6-1/4" gap for the remaining bridge to cover. This bridge also had to have a high clearance underneath, as the track underneath it was a little higher than the other 3 going under the other bridge. After a fairly exhaustive search I discovered that there were no commercial kits available that fit my needs. So either scratchbuilding or kitbashing was in order. <br />
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Last week as I was visiting my local crack dealer.....err hobby shop, I stumbled across the solution for my 2nd bridge as I happened to be walking thru the Hugely Oversized (HO) aisle: Atlas HO Flatcar Girder Loads, 4 per pack. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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They are a little longer than what I need, so I would have to shorten them by 3/4" as well as make a bottom for them. Picked up some .080" styrene sheets while I was at there and set off for home to kitbash a bridge. After some sawing, gluing. painting and decaling I had my 2nd bridge.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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One final pic of them temporarily sitting together at the gap, giving you an idea of how they will look once they are permanently installed:<br />
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Next I will have to mount the track to them and then weather them to make them look more realistic, but they are basically ready to mount to the abutments.....oh yeah, I have to make those too!! <br />
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Oh well, the list of things to do on a Model Railroad layout is never ending.....Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-80312181313551875032010-08-22T17:14:00.000-05:002010-08-22T17:14:14.009-05:00Layout Progress Report #17 as of 08/22/2010Just a quick progress report on the Cahaba Southern: It's been a busy three weeks since the last update, and the good news is that the major benchwork on the upper main level has been completed!! Yes, it is time to start trackwork and electrical on the main level.<br />
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In the following picture the double mainline can be seen looping above the helix. Getting the elevations right for this loop turned out to be fairly since I had detailed elevation measurements from the trackplan. All the elevations on the trackplan were with respect to the top of the benchwork. I measured up the amount of the elevations above the benchwork on the wall, and made a mark. Next I broke out my self-leveling laser line level to match that mark. I then held a ruler above the actual location and was able to determine the exact height of the riser by where the laser line was hitting the ruler. After the risers were in place the wood subroadbed was cut and then put in place. The results can be seen below:<br />
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Here is another pic a little further down the benchwork. As you can see I have started the cork roadbed and getting ready for the track laying. I actually had to lay the track coming from the helix to the branchline before the benchwork for the double mainline in the previous picture was put into place.<br />
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<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4806.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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The following pic shows the some more of the complete main level benchwork. Also, if you look closely I have mounted the front fascia for the lower staging level to give things a more finished look. It will be painted green later on.<br />
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This picture gives you a closer look at the different mainline elevations above the helix. Couldn't imagine doing this without a detailed trackplan with exact measurements, be it a trackplan out of a magazine or book, or one drawn up on a CAD package.<br />
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This final pic shows the rest of the cork roadbed in place on the branchline return loop. It will more than likely be up and running before the mainlines, as those will require some bridge construction that I haven't started yet.<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">Until next time.........</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-38689359946418510342010-08-01T08:48:00.003-05:002010-08-01T09:05:17.159-05:00Layout Progress Report #16 as of 08/01/2010As usual with most model railroads things slow down in terms of layout progress in the summer months, and the Cahaba Southern is no exception. However, progress is still being made. With my last post the plywood subroadbed had been cut, and since then I have been putting in risers and connecting the new subroadbed to the helix. At this point the main lower subroadbeds are in place, and next are the remaining higher subroadbed for the double track mainline.<br />
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Here you can see the first of the subroadbed set to the appropriate height with risers, and then connected to the helix.<br />
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<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4757.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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More subroadbed on risers in the town area of the layout. The higher subroadbed visible in the back is not attached yet to the risers, it is just laying on them.<br />
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Here you see the subroadbed leaving the town area heading up towards the coal mine. This picture shows the true beauty of using cookiecutter benchwork.. As the subroadbed starts to rise towards the coal mine the transiition is perfectly smooth, which will give a natural flow to the trains going up/down this transistion. The bend of the plywood makes it perfect.<br />
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<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4760.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4760.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Up until this point I have been installing the risers by clamping them to the joists, leveling them to the correct height, and then screwing them to the sides of the joists. This is tedious and takes some time. As I was getting ready to install the risers around the coal mine area I discovered that I was going to have to install some right over the wiring holes in the benchwork, effectively blocking them. No problem, I'll just cut those to the correct height and use pocket screws to mount those to the top of the risers........<br />
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AAARRRGGGGHHH!!! DOINK!!! Well DUH!! Why hadn't I thought of that before, it would have saved a lot of tedious work mounting those risers. I have the exact rise needed from CADRail, the grid benchwork underneath is level, and I have an accurate miter saw and the pocket hole jig.... this would have saved me about a days worth of work if I had done all of the other risers that way! Armed with my revelation I was able to knock out the remaining risers needed around the coal mine in about an hour instead of the 6-8 it would have take the other way.<br />
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<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4761.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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I was then able to attach the subroadbed for that area.<br />
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<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4763.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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I'm not attaching the subroadbed for the mine at this point, I'll do that afer I lay the track around the back of the layout behind the mine area.<br />
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That's all for now, next I will continue on the remaining risers for the mainline....Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-396533903920537972010-06-27T19:41:00.000-05:002010-06-27T19:41:11.942-05:00Layout Progress Report #15 as of 06/27/2010<div style="text-align: left;">Wow, hard to believe it's been over 6 weeks since I last posted an update! Things have been really busy, and the CSR took a backseat to other commitments. I did get a chance to attend the Southeastern Region NMRA convention. If you've never attended a regional or national NMRA convention, I highly recommend it. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Back to the CSR, I've started working on the wooden subroadbed the last couple of weekends. I'm using cookie cutter roadbed, using similar techniques as in Progress Report #3. I'm once again using 1/2" plywood for the subroadbed. I cut the plywood to the size of the benchwork underneath. Next I print out a 1-to-1 scale layout diagram and attach it to the plywood. The diagram also had lines on it for the subroadbed. These will provide the cutting guides for the jigsaw.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">I then once again used a center punch and multiple color Sharpies to mark all the lines. Next I carried the plywood pieces to the garage to cut them in to cookie-cutter pieces with the jigsaw.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4749.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">After a hour or so of sawing the roadbed was cut and then placed back onto the layout.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">Next it will be time to start putting in risers underneath the plywood. Until then.....</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-34250292449011330602010-05-09T10:41:00.003-05:002010-05-16T21:53:13.299-05:00Layout Progress Report #14 as of 05/09/2010The last couple of weeks have been spent putting up the backdrop for the upper level of the CSR. I've chosen to use 1/8" masonite for the backdrop due to it's ease of use, paintability and low cost at under $7 per 4'x8' sheet. I contemplated using sheet styrene, but it's higher cost and more wall-destructive mounting method (liquid nails) ruled it out.<br />
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Here's a list of what I needed to make the backdrop:<br />
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<ul><li>4 sheets 4'x8' 1/8" masonite hardboard</li>
<li>3/4" firring strips</li>
<li>3" wood screws for mounting the firring strips</li>
<li>18ga finish nails for mounting the hardboard</li>
<li>1-1/4" sheetrock screws</li>
<li>Drywall Mud with vinyl</li>
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I had the hardboard cut at the lumberyard as they will do it for free, saving me the work from doing it, and makes it easier to handle. The top of the upper benchwork is just under 45" from the ceiling, so I had the hardboard cut to 42". <br />
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First thing to do was to mount the firring strips to the walls. There will be 4 firring strips behind the hardboard for it to mount to, and the strips themselves will be mounted to the studs behind the sheetrock using 3" screws. For firring strips I used some leftover 3/4" plywood I had left over from the benchwork, however any straight firring strips will do. The reason I chose to use firring strips to mount the hardboard to instead of mounting the hardboard directly to the existing sheetrock and studs was that it would give me a uniform mounting surface anywhere instead of only have one every 16" at the stud locations. Using only the studs would have made mounting the hardboard much harder.<br />
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Here are some pics showing the firring strips mounted to the walls. They are mounted at the top, bottom and 2 evenly spaced locations corresponding to the height of the hardboard. I left them 12" away from the corners to save some wood, as the hardboard will be coved with a 15" radius. Having a laser level made getting these straight and level much easier.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Next came mounting the hardboard to the firring strips. Here is where the power of the internet came in handy: while researching the best way of building backdrops I read where a model railroader had mounted his hardboard backdrop using an air compressor powered nailgun and 18 ga finish nails instead of using countersunk screws. Having used countersunk screws with 1/8" hardboard before (it was a pain in the tuckus!) I was willing to give the airgun and finish nails a try....and it worked perfectly! This saved a pile of work and frustration! I still used some screws along the bottom edge, as these are below track level and will not be visible, but this made the mounting even stronger.<br />
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Having a second set of hands while mounting the hardboard is a must. My wife helped me with the mounting and this made the job much easier. Before mounting I measured and marked off the starting radius at each corner, as this will give a reference point of how far to bend the hardboard. We then positioned the first piece in place, choosing the short walls by the door as the starting points. Bending the corners was a little tough at first, until we figured out a little trick: Use a long cardboard shipping tube to push & hold the corners into place until the hardboard is nailed. Any long firm board or stick will do, just make sure the edges are rounded so they don't mar the hardboard. <br />
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I left an 1/8" gap between each board, and slid some pieces of wood behind joints where the hardboard piece meet to stabilize the joints. Here are is the first piece mounted, it went behind the helix and required just a little more work to get in place:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here are pics of all the hardboard mounted:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4714.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4710.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Next came the messiest part, mudding the joints and filling the nail holes. I used some fiberglass mesh tape over the seams, and then several coats of vinylized sheetrock mud. Using the mud with vinyl in it should help reduce any cracking due to movement and changes in the wood. To smooth out the mud I used a large firm sponge to do the work instead of a sanding screen. This cut out the dust problems normally associated with sheetrock mud.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4716.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After all the mud was smoothed it came time for the paint. I applied 2 coats of Behr Horizon Haze latex flat, the same color I originally used on the walls.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4719.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4718.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Mission accomplished! The whole idea of using a curved backdrop with coved corners is to hide the corners, giving the illusion of a continuous scene, and it works wonders once again. This is the second layout I've coved the corners and it was well worth it. This time around it was much easier and faster, using lessons learned personally and from research to get the job done over 2 weekends. The backdrop will be painted with mountains, clouds and scenery, but that will be done in later stages of the layout.<br />
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Hmm, what next to work on.......Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-12887984771063565342010-04-25T18:07:00.002-05:002010-04-29T21:42:21.338-05:00Layout Progress Report #13 as of 04/25/2010Getting ready to start on the upper level backdrop, so I'm trying to knockout a few odds & ends on the lower level. I plan on adding some control panels to the front fascia at a later time, however I wanted to do was add some kind of visual indicator directly to the yard itself that shows when the train has cleared the switch as well as which turnout route is programmed for which yard track.<br />
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Here is what I came up with:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The routing boards are made from aluminum L-stock, some bolts, washers, and attached to a T-nut mounted to the bottom of the plywood. I purchase the aluminum at a local hardware store. Cut it down to a 2 inch piece with a hacksaw, and then smoothed out the corners with a tabletop grinder and file to eliminate any sharp edges. I then drilled a 1/4" hole into the aluminum to mount the 3" bolt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4705.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's a close up pic of the completed routing board assembly. The route shown is what is programmed into the Digitrax DS64, allowing the yard operator to direct the train by throwing one switch address on the controller</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The final touch was done on my inkjet with some label paper. It shows the Cahaba Southern logo for the first time.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4706.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Still trying the figure out the best thing to do for lighting the lower level. Hope to have some progress on that next time.......</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-73002209738659068132010-04-18T12:18:00.001-05:002010-04-18T12:20:30.040-05:00Layout Progress Report #12 as of 04/18/2010It's been a busy couple of days on the Cahaba Southern, as the upper main level benchwork was started and completed. Most of the major wood cutting work had been done several months ago when the lower level was made. At this point all that needed to be done is for the beams to be cut to length and a few pocket holes to be drilled, as the cross-members were ready to go. The other part that required some work is the benchwork around the helix, as it required some angled cuts and some fitting around the helix itself.<br />
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The first piece of framework is mounted to the walls. As can be seen in the picture support blocks have been put in place around the walls to help support the framework. In addition to these blocks which are mounted to the wall studs the framework is attached to the wall studs as well with 3 inch screws.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The second piece of framework is completed and mounted. It is secured to the wall, the first piece of framework, and the framework around the helix. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The following picture shows the helix framework in a little more detail. 3 of the outside helix support rods had to be shortened as they were in the way of the framework. Small wooden spacers were cut to support the helix at those points where the rods were shortened. I'm sorry that I didn't take any pictures as I was doing this, as I plain forgot too since I was so busy figuring out these adjustments! Sometimes even the most well-thought out plans require last minute tweaks....<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4616.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The third piece of framework is in place.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then the fourth and final piece of framework is installed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
That went quick!! I guess after the weeks of working on the helix there was some renewed energy to work on the Cahaba Southern again. Next it will be time to work on the curved backdrop for the main level, as well, as getting some lighting in place for the staging level. Until then.......Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-78614965852422490482010-04-13T20:27:00.003-05:002010-04-13T20:29:49.784-05:00Layout Progress Report #11 as of 04/13/2010<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">It is finished!!! It took some time, got sidetracked with some other obligations, but the helix is finally complete. Here it is in all it's glory: </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4611.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here is a pic taken at a wider angle, showing how it fits into the benchwork: </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_4612.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">6 and 2/3rds total loops, each one gaining 2.5". It comes out 2 5/8" above the main level benchwork. After I get my shoulder popped back into it's socket from patting myself on my back, it will be time to start building the main level framework. You can see how high it will be based upon the two strips I've already mounted behind the helix on the walls. </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br />
</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sawdust Making Part II will start this Friday!</span></span>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-65064570382244652122010-04-04T08:33:00.004-05:002010-04-04T10:02:03.727-05:00How-To: Laying & Joining Flextrack in a Curve<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Laying and joining flextrack on curves is something that can be daunting and frustrating for beginners as well as experienced model railroaders alike, but here is the technique that has served me well over the years. The following pic shows a piece of Peco 55 flextrack in place on a 17" radius curve on my helix, waiting for the next piece. First things first is always put the movable rail on the inside of the track.</span></span></span></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01675.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">When putting the movable rail on the inside that inside rail will end up being longer. </span></span></div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01676.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Using a cutting tool (in my case a Dremel with flexshaft and cutoff wheel) I then trim the inside rail to match the length of the outside rail. You can see the red mark of where to cut the rail. </span></span></div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01677.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">After the first piece is trimmed to length I lay the second piece out, movable rail on the inside, with a radius close to the final one.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01678.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now the second piece needs trimming on the inside rail.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01679.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01679.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Once the second piece is trimmed, attach the two rails together with rail joiners.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01680.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Next solder the 2 pieces of flex to each other and the joiners.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01681.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here is the soldered rail.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01682.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; white-space: normal;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><div class="" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">A little cleaning up along the top edge and inside edge with a needle file to remove any stray burrs, giving a perfectly smooth joint.</span></div><div class="" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01683.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01683.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now pull the track out of the way towards the inside and put down the adhesive latex caulk to hold the new piece of track. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01684.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Smooth out the caulk and set the new flextrack piece in place, tapping in some thumbtacks to help hold it. The caulk will turn clear when dry. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01685.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;">All done, or as in my case: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!!! </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC01686.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br />
</span></span></div></span></span></div><div></div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-38696347114584791362010-03-15T20:35:00.000-05:002010-03-15T20:35:42.319-05:00Layout Progress Report #10 as of 03/15/2010Just a quick update: The first loop is completed, so I wanted to get a quick few pics of it before I start putting down the cork roadbed and track for the first loop. I will say this: when the helix is finished I will use the inside as a tornado shelter! As flimsy as the rods may look, the wood pieces are solidly in place!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3957.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
<a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3958.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-7060826594583373732010-03-14T19:24:00.005-05:002010-03-15T05:26:00.140-05:00Layout Progress Report #9 as of 03/14/2010The fun has begun....the helix, that is. As previously shown, my layout is 2 levels, the upper scenicked level connected to the lower staging level with a single track helix. The design specifications for the helix are as follows:<br />
<br />
<ul><li>Single track </li>
<li>17 inch radius</li>
<li>2.5" rise per loop</li>
<li>6.5 loop total</li>
</ul><br />
Using nominal 1/2" plywood with cork and Peco 55 track this yields a height clearance of almost 1-7/8", with a grade of 2.34%. This is more than the NMRA recommended clearance of 1.65"<br />
<br />
If you do a search on the internet you will find many different techniques for building one, including purchasing some kits to make the helix build simple. I decided to make the components and build it myself, as it is the most cost effective solution. Keeping with the cost effective theme meant that cutting the helix loops as semi-circles out of plywood would also not work as it leaves a lot of wasted wood. I decided to use a technique of making a circle out of 12 straight pieces of wood, with each end of the wood cut at a 15 degree angle. Here is a CADRail drawing of what it will look like:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/Helix.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/Helix.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>With a table saw and miter saw it will be rather straight forward to cut these pieces to size. I will be able to cut all the wood needed for the helix using one piece of 4x8 plywood. To join the pieces of wood to make the helix I will cut an 1/8" slot into the edge of the wood and connect them with some 1/8" thick masonite pieces. The same masonite pieces will be used as supports using threaded rod risers.<br />
<br />
I started working on it Saturday morning after a trip to Lowes for the remaining hardware. First thing was to rip the plywood to 3" wide strips, and then cut them down to the appropriate length with the miter saw. Here you see the pile of wood strips cut to length:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3944.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here you can better see how the wood pieces will work together:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3945.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Now is time to cut slots into the ends of the wood strips. To do this I am using my router table and a slot-cutting bit.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here you can see the business end of the slot-cutting bit with a guide bearing on top. It will make short work of cutting the slots.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3947.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After some serious sawdust the wood strips are slotted.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3948.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Then I cut the 1/8" masonite slot pieces with the table saw and miter saw, and drilled some holes for the threaded rods. Here is the whole pile of parts that will make the helix.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
First I made a jig to mark the track centerline on each piece out of a couple pieces of wood. Doing this before assembly will make things easier. Once again I will use a punch to mark the line.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3950.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Next it is time to grab one circle of pieces and lay it out on the base to see how it will fit. I also marked where to drill the holes for the threaded rod risers.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3951.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next close-up will give you a better idea of how the helix will be put together.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3952.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
Once everything is laid out and marked, it was time to remove some of the base where the helix will start. I calculated that after 3 sections the helix will rise above the base, so I cut a hole with a jigsaw for that. I also drilled the holes for the threaded rod risers and started putting them into place.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3953.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">All the threaded rods are in place, secured in place with nuts, washers and loctite threadlocker.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3954.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here you see the first three pieces in place. The first piece is spliced to the base, with the remaining pieces supported by risers under the base until the first masonite tongue piece is used.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the helix construction has begun, next time I will continue to chronicle the building of the helix....</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-88693780122812973992010-02-28T20:17:00.002-06:002010-02-28T20:32:56.742-06:00Layout Progress Report #8 as of 02/28/2010Greetings!! Been a few weeks since I've posted, as visual progress has been slow even though a lot of work has gotten done on the Cahaba Southern. The big news is that the lower staging level is completely wired and functioning! All the track is ready and tweaked, all turnouts are operational, and DCC control of the tracks and the turnouts is complete. All the lower level needs is a front fascia and some turnout indicator control panels, however those will wait until after the main level is in place.<br />
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The main DCC and power supply area is shown in the following pic. From left to right on the lower shelf the components you can see are the Pyramid 13.8V Power Supply (main DCC power), the Digitrax DCS100 command station, and the 12V auxiliary DC power supply (turnout power). On the shelf above the components is the power distribution board and to the left is the surge protector. To the right of the power distribution board is the battery charger for the 9V NiMH throttle batteries. Above the board latched to the benchwork is the lower level DCC subdistrict distribution board. Still missing is a DCC booster for the main level which will go to the right of the DCS100.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3942-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3942-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The power distribution board splits the 2 DC power sources for the two levels of the layout. The power from the Pyramid 13.VDC Power Supply is also fused, as the power supply is rated higher than the input capability of the DCC components. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3943.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here is a picture of the lower staging level DCC subdistrict distribution board, folded down. The Digitrax PM42 is now all hooked up and wired, and the Digitrax AR1 for the reversing section is in place on the upper left.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3935.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
There are 3 sets of wires running along below the layout. Going thru the holes closest to the wall are the 5 pairs of 14AWG main bus wires that feed the 20AWG track feeders. They are connected with the red 3M Scotchlok connectors. The middle set of holes are the wires for 12VDC power for the Digitrax DS64 turnout decoders. The hole nearest to the front edge of the layout is for the Loconet 6 conductor datawire connecting the Digitrax components together.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3938.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here you see two of the DS64s mounted to a hinged board that folds out of the way, wired up and ready to go. The blue and yellow wires not connected are for the future turnout position control panels that will be mounted on the front fascia. They are connected to the turnout machine PL-10 switches.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3936.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here is the same board, held up out of the way so it will not be visible during normal operations. Once the fascia is up it will be totally invisible.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3937.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The netbook that I'm using to program the decoders with JMRI Decoder Pro is shown in this final picture. It is hooked up to a Digitrax PR3 which ties it to the Loconet and the programming track. It will also be used to future layout control via JMRI. </span></span><br />
<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
So another milestone has been reached. Now is where the next challenge begins, the construction of the helix...Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-53372923875506644642010-02-07T17:20:00.003-06:002010-02-08T19:21:32.669-06:00Layout Progress Report #7 as of 02/7/2010Things are moving along on the Cahaba Southern, as a major milestone has been reached in the completion of the trackwork on the lower staging level! All the turnouts and switchmachines, all the flex and rerailers! Feeders are in place, as well as the subsection insulators. Here are some pics, and please excuse the mess as work is continuing!<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3926.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3927.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With all the track in place on the lower staging level, it is time to start getting the electrical in place for the layout. Here are some of the details of what I'm planning to use:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><ul><li>Pyramid PS14KX 13.8VDC 14A Power Supply (For DCS100 and one booster)</li>
<li>Radio Shack 12VDC 1.75A Power Supply (For Digitrax DS64 Turnout Decoders)</li>
<li>Digitrax DCS100 Command Station </li>
<li>Digitrax UR92 Duplex Panel with DT402D Throttle</li>
<li>2 Digitrax PM42 Power Controllers (1 Per level)</li>
<li>2 Digitrax AR1 Auto-Reverse Controllers (1 Per level)</li>
<li>14AWG Solid Wire for Main DCC Bus Power</li>
<li>20AWG Solid Wire Feeders from Track to Main DCC Buses & Turnout Machines to Digitrax DS64 Stationary Decoders</li>
<li>Numerous Terminal strips and plenty of fuses in the right places!</li>
</ul><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I'm trying to make everything as accessible as possible for ease of installation and maintenance, yet still keeping things out of the way. I got the idea to use foldaway mounting boards for the PM42s and DS64s from Bruce Faulkner's <a href="http://www.shendiv.com/">CSXT Shenandoah Division N scale layout</a>, and I'm using something similar on mine.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here you can see the beginning step of getting the lower level PM42 and AR1 wired up. Yes, I am using 14 ga. wire soldered to the PM42 connector. A little tricky, but doable. Be sure to use heatshrink!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3922.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3924.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3930.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here you can see a closeup of the board mounted to the layout. Once complete the board will fold up out of the way, making things look neater under the layout:</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3931.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Here is one final shot of the power station area of the layout. Just getting started, plenty more wiring to do!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-43853314410279137242010-01-31T17:12:00.001-06:002010-01-31T17:31:42.394-06:00Layout Progress Report #6 as of 01/31/2010Progress on the Cahaba Southern is steady, with more trackwork going on. All the turnouts are in place for the lower level, with all undertable switch machines mounted, wire prepped, and tested. I'm using Peco PL-10 switch machines on the Cahaba Southern, with Peco PL-13 Accessory switches mounted for future control panel indication purposes. Final control of the turnouts will fall to Digitrax DS64 stationary decoders. Here's what it took to get them installed:<br />
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First. mount the PL-13 to the PL-10 with some adhesive. I used silicone sealant for this. Let them sit for overnight for the silicone to dry.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3870.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3870.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm using Invis-A-Mount undertable mounts for mounting the Peco PL-10s. I did not want to mount the PL-10s directly to the turnouts, as they require a large hole in the roadbed to mount. Using the mounts made it easier to mount with a much smaller hole required in the layout. They are made by F&H Enterprises, but I believe they are out of business. However they can still be found on ebay.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3871.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3871.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
In order to make the mounting go quicker and more precise I made a template out of sheet aluminum for marking where to drill the mounting hole. It has 2 guidelines, one for the track centerline, one for the turnout throwbar centerline as well as the drill guide holes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3872.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Line those up and mark the two circles with a thin Sharpie. This will then give you the location to drill 2 1/4" holes. Once the holes are drilled use a jig saw to connect the holes. The results will look like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3873.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back to the PL-10/PL-13, solder on some wires. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3874.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3874.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Mount the Invis-A-Mount to the PL-10 and bend the tabs of the PL-10 to hold it to the mount. Finally, I used some industrial strength velcro to hold the whole assembly in place. The mount comes with screws, however I'm using the velcro for installation/deinstallation ease as well as adjustability.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3875.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The mount needs to be trimmed to match the plywood thickness as does the extension tube which goes between the PL-10 and the turnout. Attach the whole assembly to the underside of the layout. You can see it peaking out thru the hole.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3876.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3876.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally put the turnout in place, connecting it to the undertable assembly with the included nail going to the extension tube. Test it and it's ready!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3877.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As I said at the beginning of this post the turnouts are in place, as is the flex for the mainline. The flex for the staging tracks is about a third of the way there. Once the track is in place I will go back and finalize all the blocks using a Dremel to cut the rails for the blocks as well as complete all the feeders. Then the undertable wiring begins.....</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3918.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3919.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3921.jpg" width="320" /></a>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-49696614622578943152010-01-24T19:31:00.002-06:002010-01-29T18:41:25.747-06:00Layout Progress Report #5 as of 01/24/2010<div style="text-align: left;">Another busy week on the Cahaba Southern, unfortunately there isn't that much to see in terms of changes. Started off the week putting some Digitrax DCC decoders into some locomotives so that the fleet will at least be partially ready once the track is laid. Speaking of track, there are 2 things I'm doing on this layout for the first time: Using undertable turnout switch machines for the Peco turnouts and using adhesive caulk to secure the flextrack down to the cork roadbed. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">I've gone with using Peco turnout switch machines mounted undertable, and spent an evening figuring out the easiest way to mount them, as I have 30+ to install, and I want to install them as I'm going along. I'll describe how I mount them in a future post. As for the use of caulk for laying the flextrack, it is working well, however it is slower than nailing down the track. There have been many articles in the literature on how to do this, so I won't bore y'all with the details.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Speaking of flextrack, one of the things one has to do is provide power to it. Soldering feeders is the way to go, however I wanted to make the feeders invisible once the track is down and ballasted. First, take the track and turn it over. Look for the gaps on the flexible rail, those mark where we want to do our work. Remove the plastic backing on the opposite rail from the gap using a razor saw. Be sure to just cut through the plastic and not the rail, as shown in the following picture:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3858.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Cut thru 5 adjacent gaps and use a pair of pliers to remove the remaining plastic, being careful to damage the ties. It should then look like this:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3860.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Slide the 4 sections apart, leaving a large gap in the middle as shown:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3861.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Take a small file and roughen up the bottom of the rails. This will give the solder a better surface to adhere to.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3862.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3862.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Lay the 20 gauge wire as shown and solder using some 60/40 rosin core solder. Here is the wire laying down on the rail, held in place. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3864.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">One thing I highly recommend is a good soldering station. You want higher heat than you can get from your standard $20 25-watt soldering iron, as the higher heat let's you get the solder melted quickly, as taking too long will melt the plastic of the ties. I use a Weller station with adjustable temp, which I have set to 750F. Here is the wire should look after soldering.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">Here are both wires soldered to the track:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">File the solder smooth on either side of the wires, and then slide the ties back into place.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">Turn it over and you are done. As you can see the ties are back evenly spaced, and no large solder blob visible on the side of the rail. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3867.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3867.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Lay the track and cover the wire with ballast, making an invisible power feed.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">One final pic of this post, showing some of the progress this week. Excuse the mess, work in progress!!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3868.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-53986897467829656212010-01-18T20:07:00.001-06:002010-01-19T20:01:21.035-06:00Layout Progress Report #4 as of 01/18/2010Another busy week working on the CSR. Spent about 3 evenings printing out the 1:1 scale trackplan out of CADRail and putting it together. Printed out on my laser printer, it took a lot of clear tape and adjustments to attach to the benchwork. Ran into 2 issues:<br />
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1) The room and therefore the benchwork is not 100% square.<br />
2) Even laser printers aren't exact in their printouts. <br />
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The first I expected, the second I didn't. Turns out as the laser printer prints the guide wheels are effected by the grippiness of the paper, causing some minor slipping of the paper as it feeds thru. Just had to work around it and made the best of it, and the results were as good as I had hoped for.<br />
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Started out at the helix, as I already had a reference line, i.e. the helix circle drawn on the wood. Also visible is some new storage containers that fit perfectly under the layout.<br />
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As we work around the room you can also see my new worktable, a drafting hobby table that has rollers allowing me to store it under the layout as well.<br />
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Here the unsquareness of the room came out here. I made the best of it by extending the straights in the staging yard.<br />
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Whew!! That was a lot of paper and tape but made it all the way around. Highly recommend using a paper cutter.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3841.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Now how do I use this taped down trackplan?? I've seen some other layouts where the paper is glued to the benchwork, and then the cork/vinyl roadbed is glued to the paper. The more I thought about it, the more I didn't like it as I was worried about the things coming unglued. I decided to do something different: Punch small holes in the paper into the wood and then color the holes. The next picture show the automatic centering punch I used for this. Put holes in about every inch in curves and 2 inches on straights.<br />
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Once I had the holes punched (2 hours later) I followed up with some colored Sharpies to match the colors of the trackplan. Results are visible in the next 2 pics, purple is the loops, orange is staging.<br />
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The colored dots became the centerline for the cork subroadbed, glued down with yellow wood glue and tacked in place until the glue dries in about 30 minutes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3845.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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In the next few pics are some more details of how I glued down the cork. First lay down a bead of glue:<br />
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Then using a small disposal brush spread out the glue about cork width to help with even adhesion. Lay the cork on this, making sure you press down firmly the entire length, tak it down, and remove any glue seepage with a damp cloth.<br />
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Here is some of the trickier cork laying around the yard entrance. Make sure to have plenty of tacks on hand! This section took a couple of hours by itself!<br />
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Once dry I followed up with some drywall sanding mesh attached to a sanding float and smoothed out the top of the cork, Made short work of it and resulted in a perfectly smooth surface.<br />
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The completed cork roadbed on the lower level:<br />
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The cork is down in a weekend, not too bad for a one man crew!<br />
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Next comes some trackwork and beginning of the wiring for this level. Things will start slowing down here, so until then.......Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-89702789968987384392010-01-10T18:29:00.001-06:002010-01-10T18:30:02.134-06:00Layout Progress Report #3 as of 01/10/2010Well, it took a strong push last Thursday and Friday night, as well as most all day Saturday & Sunday to complete the basic benchwork for the lower level. This has been a tiring couple of weeks to get this far but well worth it. The one thing I miss about the old house in which my first Cahaba Southern was located is that the room was in the basement without carpet, so I was able to work on the woodwork in the room itself a bit at a time. Here in this house the room is carpeted and off the downstairs den, so no major woodwork is possible in there. All the heavy duty sawing and cutting has to be done in the garage, and in particular in my wife's parking spot. Therefore, getting the woodwork knocked out without leaving the table-saw and miter-saw out (as well as my wife's car in the cold) for an extended period of time has been a priority.<br />
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Risers were cut from 1x3 poplar Thursday night and installed Friday night.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Saturday morning it was off to the Big Orange Retail Giant (BORG), i.e. Home Depot, to purchase some 1/2" BC 4-ply plywood as well as some some more screws. I had the BORG staff cut the plywood into more manageable 2 foot wide sheets as well as cut them to appropriate length (still had to trim them by 1/4" once I got home). Installing the 3 straight sections going clockwise from the left of the door took the rest of the day. <br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Saturday evening it was time to look at the helix area again to see if/how my plans would actually work. I had to make some adjustments, the biggest being that there was not enough room for the helix supports with an 18" radius, so I had to decrease it to 17". This would make my grade 2.34% with a 2.5" top-of-rail to top-of-rail rise, still below my goal of 2.5% maximum. I also decided it was best to go back to the BORG and get another piece of plywood and build the helix base out of one piece of plywood instead of splicing some smaller pieces together as I had originally planned. This will give a sturdier base of the helix, and will simplify the building of the helix support structure. The 17" radius circle is shown on the helix base, and the hole was cut to a 14" radius.<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3834.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3835.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So now the lower level base benchwork is complete, the saws have been put up, sawdust has been swept up, and my wife's car is back in it's spot. Next it's time to start on laying out the cork roadbed and the track, as well as starting some of the wiring. Once the lower level has it's track and wiring completed it will be time to build the helix, followed by the construction of the upper level benchwork.<br />
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</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-10790880974400542262010-01-08T20:07:00.001-06:002010-01-10T17:36:49.442-06:00Layout Progress Report #2 as of 01/08/2010<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A couple of productive evenings this week, got the rest of the framework up for the lower level. I also built and put in a couple of small bookcases for under layout storage. Here are a few pics of the progress:</span></span><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #dbdbdb; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: black; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Helix corner to the right of the door:</span></span></span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3823.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Another view of the helix, the lone leg of the layout is visible, shared with the upper level:</span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3824.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Left side framework table, bookcases shown underneath:</span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3825.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Another view of the left side framework of the lower level:</span></span><br />
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</span></span></span><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3826.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Next are some risers and then comes the subroadbed plywood!</span></span><br />
</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504872489573036355.post-2372742631928993872010-01-03T19:43:00.003-06:002010-01-03T19:48:41.034-06:00Layout Progress Report #1 as of 01/03/2010<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Tomorrow the daily grind starts back up for the new year, however not before getting some substantial work in on the CSR. </span><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">First some pics of the room itself as of first thing this morning before any actual layout construction started.<br />
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Entrance from the downstairs den:<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3812.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Looking into the room you can see some of my rolling stock and track stash:<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3813.jpg" width="214" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Inside front left corner, the new dual 20A circuits are visible in the upper box:<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3814.jpg" width="214" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Another pic of another corner. Not a big room, but big enough:<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3815.jpg" width="214" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here the room sits after some work this morning laying out the level line of the lower level. The support blocks are in place to hold up the layout edge. There are 2 different size support blocks, large ones that will also be used for the cross-support, and small ones that just hold up the edge:<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3817.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is a closeup of the large support black, the mounting hole for the cross-support is visible on the side. All blocks are attached to the stud in the wall behind it with #9 x 3-1/2" wood screws:<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3818.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here is the first piece of framework in place. This is about the time I discovered that the builder of my house didn't build the room perfectly square. No matter how accurate the CAD drawings one makes one must always leave room for adjustments:<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3819.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here is a closer view of the first piece of framework. 1x3 construction, with the wood ripped from 3/4" cabinet quality birch plywood. The pieces are attached to each other with 1-1/4" Kreg pocket screws. You can also see the 5/8" holes I drilled for electrical cable. Also visible is the cross-support I'm using instead of legs. The frame is also attached directly to the studs in the wall:<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3820.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here is a closeup of the cross-support, shown from below:<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3821.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This pic shows the second piece of framework installed. Progress!<br />
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</div><a href="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/fw_fw/Model%20RR/CS%202/DSC_3822.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I hope to have the rest of the lower level framework in by the end of the week, then it will be time to attach some plywood for the subroadbed. See y'all then!<br />
</div>Frank W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/13204514852015948924noreply@blogger.com0